Sunday, 1 March 2015

Fyodor Golan AW15 - Brony style.

Lots and lots of colour, sheers with light streaming though them and images of My Little Pony - this is what had me wandering towards Fyodor Golan's AW15 collection in Somerset House.

Entitled Rainbow Wheel and marking an actual collaboration with My Little Pony, it's fun and beautiful and quite unlike the collections that surrounded it in the room. I'm still uncertain as to how exactly I feel about it. It's definitely not something I would wear personally but, then, there is much that I like but would never wear. It's a little bit eighties, a touch sixties, a wee bit futuristic and a lot like Miu Miu on acid - but in the best possible way, I think. For all the craziness, there are some damn wearable pieces and silhouettes that are feats of engineering and would look good on almost all body types. In fact, there's some very cute Debs or prom dresses in the mix.

After literal hours of staring, I think it's the exuberance. It's something that draws you in. It's why I keep staring. And will all creative ventures, I read being drawn back for further analysis despite uncertainty about your feelings on said venture as a very good sign. Good art provokes discussion and debate - especially within yourself. Perhaps it's all too gimmicky but, for now, I'm intrigued.

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Friday, 27 February 2015

Giles AW15

The Victorians hold less interest for me than what came before. Regency, or even Baroque, is much more my cup of tea. Not only did they throw a prudish spanner in the works and set gender equality back aeons but their version of lace and modesty was just too fussy, too contrived. It's all embroidered velvets in garish shades and poor proportions.

Yet reinventions of Victorian fashion, like that at Giles AW15, hold boundless appeal to me. A little bit Lestat, a little kinky and wonderfully dark. I mean, the leather frock coat? I could wear that all day, every day and never get bored or love it less. High lace collars with mini-skirts. Waists falling at more natural points. Menswear tailoring for female garments. Making being very much covered up into something overtly, palpably sexy - taking sensibilities of that period into the hands of an empowered, assured woman of ours. Theatrical explosions of ruffles and bows. Vampy black lips and little else in the way of make-up.

The success here is in the re-imagining. The heart of the garments, and even their purposeful containment of the body, remains the same but the way it is expressed and how it is interpreted is different. The woman who wears Giles is choosing to leave more to the imagination but she is a bit of a minx, she winks at us. She knows what she is doing rather than being forced to conform to standards of the time. And she has a flair for the dramatic - you won't miss her when she arrives at the party.

It's enough to make a wanna-goth swoon.
















(Images via vogue.co,uk by Indigital)

P.S. It's great to see Andreja Pejic stomping the runway once more x

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Thursday, 26 February 2015

Zoe Jordan AW15

Alpine, a little androgynous, very wearable. 

For AW15, Zoe Jordan gives us the knitwear staples the brand has led us to expect, plays with proportion, bedecks us in oversized faux fur and presents tailoring that is to die for.

Trop cool.

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Wednesday, 25 February 2015

ID15: In The Fold - Ireland at LFW

London Fashion Week AW15-16 marked the fourth International Fashion Showcase. Ireland was one of the twenty-five countries represented at the exhibition, presenting an installation of works by eight emerging designers and representing Irish design and culture - Caoimhe Mac NeiceJocelyn Murray BoyneLaura KinsellaMichael StewartNaoise FarrellOliver Duncan DohertyRichard Malone and Rory Parnell-MooneyThe installation was presented by Irish Design 2015 with LFW marking its launch before it is to tour internationally. Curated by Gemma A. Williams, the installation demonstrates how the isolation of island living can give rise to an entirely indigenous design identity - one that is clean, restrained and presents seemingly minimal but complex designs. It is very much a case of the more you look, the more you see. 

The hang of the installation allowed for room to observe the construction closely and views from multiple angles. And the "white box" gallery space for the Irish installation allowed for an oasis of calm and reflection in the hive of activity of the exhibition. The clothes were the focal point, being presented without distraction. 


And, damn, if they weren't things of intricate beauty that referenced traditional craft and design while signifying what might be made of the future. 



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Michael Stewart

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Oliver Duncan Doherty

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Laura Kinsella

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Caoimhe Mac Neice

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Richard Malone and Naoise Farrell

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Rory Parnell-Mooney and Jocelyn Murray Boyne

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Monday, 23 February 2015

ID15: Danielle Romeril AW15

Impeccably dressed. devastatingly cool girl gangs are kind of a thing with Danielle Romeril now. Last season they were encamped in the wilderness and for AW15 they're warriors. The collection, entitled Survival, presents a mixture of textures and fabrics in a range of natural tones - browns, black, white, tan with tartan, denim, leather, lace and quilting. Armour-like scaling and fringing abound. And the presence of tartan among elements seemingly borrowed from Japanese and Native American tradition blends cultures so that it all reads a little of a samurai Pocahontas by way of the Emerald Isle.

As always, an absolute treat of a collection, encompassing a strong vision with wearability.

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